Sebaceous Filaments Vs. Blackheads
When you pull the skin on your chin taut, do you see a cluster of tiny, white dots under your lower lip? What about in the folds of your nose? Do you have small, greyish dots on your nose that seem impossible to get rid of? If you answered yes to any of these, you probably have sebaceous filaments. Don’t freak out! They’re totally normal, and almost everyone has them. They can often be mistaken for blackheads (especially on the nose), but shouldn’t necessarily be treated the same way. Keep reading to learn how to get rid of these filaments and what makes them different from blackheads.
What Are Sebaceous Filaments?
Sebaceous filaments are naturally-occurring, tube-like structures that line the walls of your pores. Their purpose is to direct oil flow. Your skin produces oil (also known as sebum) in order to protect and moisturize itself. Sebaceous filaments help guide that oil from your sebaceous glands, where the oil is produced, to the surface of your skin where the oil can get to work fighting environmental aggressors and dehydration. For the most part, sebaceous filaments aren’t really visible to the naked eye. But when you have an overproduction of sebum in your skin, the oil can build up and start to harden until it eventually stretches the pore and starts to “spill out” (I promise, it’s not as gross as it sounds!). This is when they start to become visible.
Where Do You Get Them and What Do They Look Like?
Since sebaceous filaments are associated with oil production, they show up in areas where we naturally produce a lot of oil (think t-zone). Specifically, on and around the nose, and on the chin under the lower lip. They also tend to form in the creases and folds of our skin since oil accumulates here. Sebaceous filaments vary in color. They can be grey, yellowish, or white. When on the nose, they are usually light or dark grey, which is why they often get confused for blackheads. But when they’re found around the edges of the nose (especially in the folds where your nose meets your cheeks) or on the chin, they’re more likely to be white or yellowish. Sebaceous filaments are named for their shape and come out looking like just that—a filament. If you squeeze them (which you shouldn’t, more on that later!), they come out as a thin tube or strand.
What exactly is the difference between blackheads and sebaceous filaments?
The most obvious differences are color and size. Sebaceous filaments tend to be lighter in color than blackheads and appear grey, yellowish, or white. Blackheads are—you guessed it—black. This is a result of sebum and dead skin cells being exposed to air and oxidizing. Blackheads are typically bigger than sebaceous filaments. Another important distinction is that, unlike blackheads, sebaceous filaments are not technically comedones (clogged pores). Comedones are the precursors to acne breakouts, whereas sebaceous filaments don’t really turn into pimples unless you mess with them. This is because they don’t fully block pores the way comedones do; instead, the buildup coats the walls of your pores leaving the center more or less open. That said, if you have acne-prone skin, you’re more prone to sebaceous filaments because you produce a lot of oil. Even though sebaceous filaments don’t usually turn into acne, they can turn into blackheads if enough oil gets built up inside the pore. To make matters even more confusing, a person can have both blackheads and sebaceous filaments (especially on the nose).
Which Ingredients Should You Use?
Salicylic Acid (BHA). For your at-home routine, focus on salicylic acid for sebaceous filaments. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), which means it’s able to cut through oil and get deep into your pores. This will allow it to start breaking up the gunk clogging your pores, minimizing the appearance of the filaments and preventing more from cropping up. Retinol and retinoids can also be really effective against sebaceous filaments. They increase the rate of cell turnover, which keeps dead skin cells from getting stuck in your pores. This, in turn, helps regulate oil flow and prevents sebum from building up and hardening. If your skin is sensitive or you haven’t used retinol before, I suggest starting with an over the counter retinol. If you have oilier skin or have used retinol before, you can try a retinoid such as Differin, which is still available over the counter. Don’t discount the power of a physical scrub. A gentle, mechanical action can be super effective at sloughing off filaments so they’re less noticeable.
Should You Try to Extract Sebaceous Filaments?
Tempting as it may be, it’s really best if you can avoid trying to extract sebaceous filaments. As mentioned, you can never truly get rid of them this way. So while you might get some instant gratification, it won’t do you any favors in the long run. Not only this, but you risk pushing oil and bacteria from your fingers deep into the pore, which could cause an infection and lead to a full-on breakout. Squeezing at the skin too much can also lead to bruising or, worse, scarring. If you really want your sebaceous filaments extracted, go see an esthetician. They might start with a BHA chemical peel to dissolve dead skin cells and oil buildup, which will make extractions easier. Your filaments will still fill up again within thirty days, but putting yourself in the hands of a professional greatly reduces the risk of damaging your skin.
